Secretary of the Interior Usher (left) displays a fine example of a tailcoat and elaborate cravat that was often used for dress occasions. While Secretary of State for the CSA Hunter (right) shows us the frock coat ensemble that was worn by established businessmen during the early 1860's. His trousers clearly show the high-waist that was favored throughout the mid nineteenth century. Notice the wide, elaborate cravats that were worn during the early 1860's. By mid-decade gentlemen were most often seen with narrow string-style cravats.
To recreate these looks: choose a notch-collar such as the Pickett Stripe or a shawl collar such as the Rigney. For the latter part of the decade a high cut notch collared vest such as the McLaury would be ideal. The Tombstone and Wing Tip Shirts would reflect the collared white shirts. Of course, the Highland Frock Coat or Wool Frock Coat would be very appropriate.
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Photographer Matthew Brady, clearly a man of style and confidence, shows his working clothes in this portrait taken in 1861 just after Bull Run. His high-waisted trousers have a subtle stripe similar to our railhead pants. His long duster is a bit unusual for that era but would work well to keep him dry and protected while in the field.
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